Delhi

Delhi

Delhi does not ease you in; it engulfs you.

The Delhi guide

An insider’s read on Delhi

DDelhi does not ease you in; it engulfs you.

The modern city is built upon the ruins of at least seven historical capitals. This deep layering of time gives Delhi its complex, sometimes contradictory identity. The northern districts retain the heavy, poetic imprint of Islamic dynasties and the Mughal Empire, characterized by red sandstone ruins and Urdu-inflected street culture.

To the south, the British Raj left its mark in the rigid, neoclassical geometry of Lutyens' Delhi, which now serves as the highly secure, tree-lined seat of national power. The post-independence era added a pragmatic, commercial energy, largely driven by a resilient Punjabi refugee population that transformed the city into a powerhouse of trade, dining, and contemporary art.

Delhi
Delhi, India

“Delhi does not ease you in; it engulfs you. The air is thick with the scent of roasting spices, diesel exhaust, and wet earth, while the soundscape is a relentless symphony of auto-rickshaw horns and street vendors. It is a metropolis of stark dualities, where ancient, crumbling Mughal fortifications stand in the shadow of sleek, elevated metro tracks, and chaotic, medieval alleyways open up to the sprawling, manicured lawns of the diplomatic quarters.”

Guides & ideas

The Delhi reading list

Hand-written guides from our editors — itineraries, the best of after dark, where to eat, and what’s genuinely worth your time.

Walking the Red Fort's Sandstone Walls in Old Delhi
Tours & ticketsTop guide

Walking the Red Fort's Sandstone Walls in Old Delhi

What you actually see inside Lal Qila, which ticket covers the museums, how to get through the Lahori Gate security queue, and which hour of the day to arrive.

More Delhi guides · 28
Walking Imperial Delhi a Century After the Empire Left

Walking Imperial Delhi a Century After the Empire Left

Walking Delhi's Tombs From the Slave Kings to the Last Mughal

Walking Delhi's Tombs From the Slave Kings to the Last Mughal

Nizamuddin, Delhi's quarter of tombs and qawwali

Nizamuddin, Delhi's quarter of tombs and qawwali

Humayunpur Is Where Delhi Eats the North East

Humayunpur Is Where Delhi Eats the North East

Forty-Eight Hours of Delhi's Monsoon Rituals

Forty-Eight Hours of Delhi's Monsoon Rituals

Dilli Haat INA and the South Delhi streets around it

Dilli Haat INA and the South Delhi streets around it

Momos and Monasteries in Delhi's Majnu ka Tilla

Momos and Monasteries in Delhi's Majnu ka Tilla

Delhi Before Seven, from Lodhi Garden to Sunder Nursery

Delhi Before Seven, from Lodhi Garden to Sunder Nursery

The Stepwells of Delhi: The Ancient Water Palaces Hidden Beneath the Megacity

The Stepwells of Delhi: The Ancient Water Palaces Hidden Beneath the Megacity

Delhi After Dark Once the Heat Finally Breaks

Delhi After Dark Once the Heat Finally Breaks

The Language of Spice: How Delhi Speaks Through Its Markets

The Language of Spice: How Delhi Speaks Through Its Markets

Walking Purana Qila and Sunder Nursery in Delhi

Walking Purana Qila and Sunder Nursery in Delhi

Delhi's Mughal Gardens: Where Paradise Still Grows

Delhi's Mughal Gardens: Where Paradise Still Grows

Delhi's Sufi Soul: Thursday Night Qawwali at Nizamuddin Dargah

Delhi's Sufi Soul: Thursday Night Qawwali at Nizamuddin Dargah

Standing under India Gate and walking Delhi's Central Vista
Tours & tickets

Standing under India Gate and walking Delhi's Central Vista

Walking Majnu ka Tila, Delhi's Tibetan colony

Walking Majnu ka Tila, Delhi's Tibetan colony

Delhi's Lotus Temple takes no ticket and asks for silence
Tours & tickets

Delhi's Lotus Temple takes no ticket and asks for silence

Standing in the Courtyard of Delhi's Jama Masjid
Tours & tickets

Standing in the Courtyard of Delhi's Jama Masjid

Winter in Delhi Belongs to the Wedding Season

Winter in Delhi Belongs to the Wedding Season

Mehrauli, the Delhi neighbourhood built around the Qutb Minar

Mehrauli, the Delhi neighbourhood built around the Qutb Minar

Where Delhi Still Cooks Like the Mughal Court

Where Delhi Still Cooks Like the Mughal Court

How to spend a day in Delhi's Mandi House theatre quarter

How to spend a day in Delhi's Mandi House theatre quarter

Walking Kashmere Gate, Delhi's 1857 quarter

Walking Kashmere Gate, Delhi's 1857 quarter

Walking Chittaranjan Park, Delhi's Bengali colony

Walking Chittaranjan Park, Delhi's Bengali colony

Standing Under Delhi's Qutub Minar Before the Crowds
Tours & tickets

Standing Under Delhi's Qutub Minar Before the Crowds

Riding Delhi's Railway History from Steam to 160 km/h

Riding Delhi's Railway History from Steam to 160 km/h

How Delhi Marries Itself From November to February

How Delhi Marries Itself From November to February

Doing the Taj Mahal from Delhi in a Single September Day
Tours & tickets

Doing the Taj Mahal from Delhi in a Single September Day

Where to base yourself

The neighborhoods

01
Connaught Place (CP)

Connaught Place (CP)

For First-time visitors who want central transit connections and familiar dining options. The trade-off is the persistent presence of touts, street vendors, and aggressive shoe-shiners.

A colonial-era circular hub defined by white Georgian colonnades, radial roads, and a bustling underground market. It serves as the geographic and commercial heart of the city.

Where to stay — Opt for heritage hotels or mid-range business hotels located just off the outer ring to escape the immediate street noise.

02
Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad)

Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad)

For History enthusiasts and adventurous food lovers. The trade-off is extreme congestion, noise, and a lack of modern amenities or clean sidewalks.

A dense, chaotic maze of 17th-century alleys, wholesale markets, and historic mosques. It is loud, crowded, and thick with sensory stimulation.

Where to stay — Stay in restored heritage havelis to experience the historic character without sacrificing comfort.

03
Hauz Khas Village & Shahpur Jat

Hauz Khas Village & Shahpur Jat

For Younger travelers, shoppers, and those looking for a creative, less institutional vibe. The trade-off is narrow, congested streets and a lack of direct metro access in some parts.

Creative, bohemian enclaves where medieval ruins meet independent fashion boutiques, design studios, and trendy cafes.

Where to stay — Boutique guesthouses and artistic apartments overlooking the lake or the ruins.

04
Chanakyapuri & Lutyens' Delhi

Chanakyapuri & Lutyens' Delhi

For Travelers prioritizing safety, quiet, and luxury. The trade-off is that it feels sterile, lacks street life, and requires a taxi or metro ride to reach almost any major attraction.

The elite diplomatic zone, characterized by wide, quiet, tree-lined avenues, grand bungalows, and foreign embassies.

Where to stay — Ultra-luxury international hotels and historic five-star properties.

05
Greater Kailash & South Extension

Greater Kailash & South Extension

For Mid-range and luxury travelers who want a comfortable, modern local experience with excellent shopping. The trade-off is heavy local traffic and distance from northern historic sites.

Affluent, residential South Delhi neighborhoods centered around bustling retail markets, upscale salons, and trendy dining spots.

Where to stay — High-end bed-and-breakfasts and modern boutique hotels.

06
Paharganj

Paharganj

For Budget travelers and backpackers looking for cheap accommodation and cheap food. The trade-off is poor sanitation, aggressive touts, and a generally overwhelming environment.

A gritty, chaotic backpacker strip located directly opposite the New Delhi Railway Station, packed with budget cafes, leather shops, and cheap lodging.

Where to stay — Basic budget hostels and low-cost guesthouses.

07
Mehrauli

Mehrauli

For

Delhi’s oldest continuously inhabited neighbourhood is a rewarding half-day of Sultanate ruins, village lanes, contemporary restaurants and heritage atmosphere. Best from October to March; Phool Walon Ki Sair is typically held in September–November.

Where to stay —

08
Nizamuddin

Nizamuddin

For

A compact Mughal-Sufi quarter where visitors can combine monumental architecture, shrine culture, qawwali and atmospheric lanes with excellent nearby gardens. Qawwali is generally held on Thursday evenings, subject to shrine schedules; visit the monuments early or late in the day.

Where to stay —

09
Purana Qila–Sunder Nursery

Purana Qila–Sunder Nursery

For

This green heritage precinct makes a strong half-day outing, pairing a dramatic ancient fort with restored Mughal-era monuments, gardens, crafts and the zoo. Best in the cooler months; arrive early for the fort and gardens, and check schedules for evening cultural programmes.

Where to stay —

10
Mandi House

Mandi House

For

Delhi’s performing-arts quarter is an easy evening plan for theatre, galleries, poetry, modernist architecture and Bengali Market snacks. Most venues run year-round; the area is especially lively during Bharat Rang Mahotsav and other theatre festivals.

Where to stay —

11
Majnu ka Tila

Majnu ka Tila

For

This compact Tibetan settlement offers a distinctive change of scene, with monastery visits, Himalayan food, cafés, bakeries and tightly packed lanes to explore. Pleasant from October to March; afternoons are busiest and evenings suit the café and restaurant scene.

Where to stay —

12
Dilli Haat–INA

Dilli Haat–INA

For

A purpose-built but genuinely useful visitor stop for regional handicrafts, textiles, souvenirs and food from across India in one lively market. Open daily year-round; winter and early evenings are most comfortable, while regional food festivals add occasional interest.

Where to stay —

13
Kashmere Gate

Kashmere Gate

For

Delhi’s northern historic gateway is a walkable cluster of colonial and Mughal-era landmarks, old churches, cemeteries and remnants of the 1857 uprising. Best from October to March; go in daylight, when the churches, cemeteries and scattered monuments are easiest to explore.

Where to stay —

14
Chittaranjan Park

Chittaranjan Park

For

Delhi’s Bengali cultural quarter is worth an evening for its lively fish and produce markets, temple courtyards, street food and especially festive Durga Puja atmosphere. The biggest draw is Durga Puja in September or October; otherwise visit in the evening for market snacks and sweets.

Where to stay —

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Where to eat

Dining

Sana-di-ge

Sana-di-ge

€€€
Chanakyapuri

It serves exceptionally fresh, authentic coastal Karnataka and Goan seafood in an elegant, fine-dining setting.

Signature — Mangalorean prawn ghee roast

Swagath

Swagath

€€
Defence Colony

A local institution famous for its no-nonsense approach to coastal Indian spices and perfectly cooked shellfish.

Signature — Butter pepper garlic crab

The Coastal Reef

The Coastal Reef

€€
South Delhi

A cozy spot dedicated to the fiery, aromatic seafood dishes of Kerala and Andhra Pradesh.

Signature — Kerala-style fish pollichathu wrapped in banana leaf

The Qube

The Qube

€€€€
Chanakyapuri

Housed in a striking glass pavilion, it offers some of the finest imported cuts of meat cooked on an open grill.

Signature — Australian lamb chops

The Grill Room

The Grill Room

€€€€
Barakhamba Road

Perched high above the city, it combines panoramic views with meticulously seared steaks and poultry.

Signature — Sous-vide tenderloin steak

PCO

PCO

€€€
Vasant Vihar

This speakeasy serves surprisingly sophisticated, smoky grilled small plates alongside its award-winning cocktails.

Signature — Smoked pork belly skewers

Karim's

Karim's

€
Old Delhi

A legendary, no-frills eatery operating near the Jama Masjid since 1913, serving historic royal Mughal recipes.

Signature — Mutton korma and tandoori roti

Gulati

Gulati

€€
Pandara Road

A late-night favorite for families and food lovers seeking rich, buttery North Indian gravies.

Signature — Butter chicken and kakori kebabs

Rajinder Da Dhaba

Rajinder Da Dhaba

€
Safdarjung Enclave

A massive, chaotic open-air street-side joint where locals eat standing up next to their cars.

Signature — Galouti kebab with ulta tawa parantha

Al Jawahar

Al Jawahar

€
Old Delhi

Located right next to Karim's, this rival establishment is preferred by many locals for its richer gravies.

Signature — Mutton stew

Moti Mahal

Moti Mahal

€€
Daryaganj

The historic birthplace of butter chicken, where the tandoori culinary tradition was popularized in Delhi.

Signature — Original tandoori chicken

Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wale

Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wale

€
Chawri Bazar

A tiny shop in the old city famous for stuffing whole fruits with creamy, traditional Indian ice cream.

Signature — Stuffed mango kulfi

Indian Accent

Indian Accent

€€€€
Lodhi Road

Consistently ranked among the best restaurants in Asia, chef Manish Mehrotra redefines Indian food with playful, global twists.

Signature — Blue cheese naan and pork belly tikka

Bukhara

Bukhara

€€€€
Chanakyapuri

An iconic, rustic restaurant at the ITC Maurya where world leaders eat clay-oven-baked dishes with their hands.

Signature — Dal Bukhara (slow-cooked black lentils for 18 hours)

Dum Pukht

Dum Pukht

€€€€
Chanakyapuri

Dedicated to the royal, slow-cooked Awadhi style of cooking using heavy, sealed copper pots.

Signature — Dum Pukht biryani

The Spice Route

The Spice Route

€€€€
Janpath

The restaurant's interior is a hand-carved temple-like masterpiece that took seven years to complete.

Signature — Chemeen Thoren (Kerala-style stir-fried prawns)

Varq

Varq

€€€€
Mansingh Road

A sophisticated space at the Taj Mahal Hotel that treats Indian street food and classics as edible modern art.

Signature — Varqi crab

Jamavar

Jamavar

€€€€
Chanakyapuri

An opulent dining room at the Leela Palace serving royal recipes from both Northern and Southern India.

Signature — Raan-e-Jamavar (slow-roasted leg of mutton)

Sita Ram Diwan Chand

Sita Ram Diwan Chand

€
Paharganj

Widely acknowledged as serving the absolute best version of Delhi's favorite breakfast dish.

Signature — Chole bhature with pickled green chilies

Saravana Bhavan

Saravana Bhavan

€
Connaught Place

A bustling, highly efficient spot serving flawless, authentic South Indian vegetarian staples.

Signature — Ghee roast masala dosa

Andhra Pradesh Bhavan Canteen

Andhra Pradesh Bhavan Canteen

€
Feroze Shah Road

A government-run canteen where locals queue for incredibly cheap, spicy, and unlimited South Indian meals.

Signature — Unlimited Andhra vegetarian thali

Natraj Dahi Bhalla Corner

Natraj Dahi Bhalla Corner

€
Chandni Chowk

Serving just two items since 1940, this tiny stand is a masterclass in sweet, sour, and spicy street snacks.

Signature — Dahi bhalla (lentil dumplings in spiced yogurt)

Chache Di Hatti

Chache Di Hatti

€
Kamla Nagar

A legendary student hangout in the university area known for its fluffy, freshly fried bread.

Signature — Aloo-stuffed bhature

Paranthe Wali Gali

Paranthe Wali Gali

€
Chandni Chowk

A historic, narrow lane lined with shops that deep-fry flatbreads stuffed with everything from potatoes to bananas.

Signature — Rabri (sweet condensed milk) parantha

Carnatic Cafe

Carnatic Cafe

€
Greater Kailash II

It serves exceptional, light, and crispy South Indian tiffins in a clean, modern setting.

Signature — Malleshwaram 18th Cross dosa

Greenr Cafe

Greenr Cafe

€€
Greater Kailash

A trendy, community-focused space offering a fully plant-based, eco-conscious global menu.

Signature — Jackfruit carnitas tacos

Sattvik

Sattvik

€€
Saket

An upscale restaurant serving pure vegetarian North Indian cuisine inspired by Ayurvedic principles.

Signature — Sattvik moksha thali

After dark

Nightlife

Privee

Privee

Connaught Place

A massive, opulent club inside the Shangri-La hotel known for its state-of-the-art sound system and VIP culture.

Kitty Su

Kitty Su

Barakhamba Road

An inclusive, avant-garde club inside The Lalit hotel that regularly hosts international DJs and drag performances.

Key Nightclub

Key Nightclub

Chanakyapuri

A sleek, neon-lit venue inside Hotel Samrat popular with the city's young elite.

Sidecar

Sidecar

Greater Kailash II

Widely regarded as India's best cocktail bar, featuring a multi-level space with an exceptional, narrative-driven menu.

PCO

PCO

Vasant Vihar

A pioneer of the Delhi speakeasy scene, accessed via a secret passcode entered into a vintage phone booth.

Cirrus 9

Cirrus 9

Dr. Zakir Hussain Marg

A stunning open-air rooftop bar atop The Oberoi hotel, offering unmatched views of the Delhi Golf Club canopy.

The Library Bar

The Library Bar

Chanakyapuri

An ultra-luxurious lounge at the Leela Palace with an exceptional selection of rare single malts and cigars.

Lair

Lair

Vasant Vihar

A moody, monochromatic cocktail bar that focuses on innovative, culinary-inspired mixology.

Whisky Samba

Whisky Samba

Gurugram

A massive, high-ceilinged bar boasting one of the largest whisky collections in the country.

The Piano Man Jazz Club

The Piano Man Jazz Club

Safdarjung Enclave

A legendary, multi-level venue with a strict 'silent during performance' policy that respects the artists.

Depot48

Depot48

Greater Kailash II

An intimate venue known for its excellent acoustics, hosting indie bands, singer-songwriters, and acoustic sets.

Hard Rock Cafe

Hard Rock Cafe

Connaught Place

A spacious, reliable venue for classic rock tribute acts and touring indie-rock bands.

Art & history

Culture

National Museum

National Museum

Janpath

It holds an unparalleled collection of Indian history spanning over 5,000 years, including Harappan relics and Chola bronzes.

National Crafts Museum

National Crafts Museum

Pragati Maidan

An open-air museum designed like an Indian village, showcasing traditional crafts, textiles, and live demonstrations by artisans.

Kiran Nadar Museum of Art (KNMA)

Kiran Nadar Museum of Art (KNMA)

Saket

India's premier private museum for modern and contemporary art, hosting world-class rotating exhibitions.

Humayun's Tomb

Humayun's Tomb

Nizamuddin

A magnificent 16th-century garden tomb that served as the architectural inspiration for the Taj Mahal.

Qutub Minar

Qutub Minar

Mehrauli

A soaring, 73-meter brick minaret built in 1193, surrounded by ancient ruins and an rust-resistant iron pillar from the 4th century.

Red Fort (Lal Qila)

Red Fort (Lal Qila)

Old Delhi

The massive red sandstone fortress that served as the seat of the Mughal Empire for nearly 200 years.

Jama Masjid

Jama Masjid

Old Delhi

One of the largest mosques in India, built by Shah Jahan, offering panoramic views of Old Delhi from its southern minaret.

Lotus Temple

Lotus Temple

Kalkaji

A striking Bahá'í House of Worship shaped like a blooming lotus flower, open to people of all faiths for silent meditation.

India Gate

India Gate

Rajpath

A grand triumphal arch war memorial designed by Edwin Lutyens, honoring soldiers who died in World War I.

National Gallery of Modern Art (NGMA)

National Gallery of Modern Art (NGMA)

Jaipur House

Housed in a former royal palace, it features an incredible collection of modern Indian art, including works by Amrita Sher-Gil and Rabindranath Tagore.

Delhi Art Gallery (DAG)

Delhi Art Gallery (DAG)

The Claridges

A premier private gallery showcasing highly curated exhibitions of 20th-century Indian masters.

Nature Morte

Nature Morte

Vasant Vihar

A leading contemporary gallery that champions experimental, conceptual, and multi-disciplinary Indian artists.

Timing

When to visit

Winter (October to March)

Crisp weather perfect for walking through ruins and gardens. November and December can bring heavy agricultural and industrial smog, which disrupts flights and reduces visibility.

Summer (April to June)

Extremely dry and punishingly hot. Outdoor sightseeing is virtually impossible during midday, though luxury hotels offer significant room discounts.

Monsoon (July to September)

Heavy downpours bring relief from the heat but frequently cause severe waterlogging and traffic gridlock across the city.

What it costs

Budgeting

Backpacker
€20-€35 (band)
Mid-range
€60-€110 (band)
Luxury
€250+ (band)
Logistics

Getting around

Map of Delhi

From the airport

The Delhi Metro Airport Express (Orange Line) is the cleanest, fastest, and most efficient way to reach the city center, connecting Indira Gandhi International Airport to New Delhi Railway Station in under twenty minutes. Alternatively, pre-booked app-based rides like Uber and Ola operate from designated zones outside the terminals, offering a reliable way to avoid airport taxi scams.

Public transit

The Delhi Metro is world-class, air-conditioned, and highly efficient. It is the only reliable way to bypass the city's notorious traffic jams. Trains can become intensely crowded during rush hours, but every train features a dedicated women's carriage at the front.

Passes & tickets

The Tourist Smart Card is available at all metro station customer care counters, offering unlimited travel for one or three days for a very low flat rate falling squarely in the lowest price band.

On foot

Delhi is generally not a walkable city due to broken pavements, aggressive traffic, and vast distances between districts. However, specific pockets like Lodhi Gardens, Connaught Place, and the narrow lanes of Old Delhi are best explored on foot.

Travel smart

Safety & etiquette

Local etiquette

  • •Dress modestly by covering your shoulders and knees, especially when visiting religious sites.
  • •Always remove your shoes before entering temples, mosques, or local homes.
  • •Use your right hand for eating, passing money, or greeting people; the left hand is traditionally considered unclean.
  • •Polite but firm negotiation is expected in informal markets, but avoid aggressive haggling.
From the ground

Practical tips

1

Buy a Metro Smart Card at the airport station to skip the long ticket queues at every station.

2

Carry small cash bills (100 and 200 rupee notes) as many street vendors and auto-rickshaws do not accept international cards.

3

Download offline Google Maps; GPS can be highly unreliable in the narrow, high-walled alleys of Old Delhi.

4

Check the Air Quality Index (AQI) before booking if you plan to travel between November and January.

5

Book monument entry tickets online through the official Archaeological Survey of India website to skip massive ticket window lines.

6

Never accept unsolicited travel advice or hotel recommendations from strangers near train stations or Connaught Place.

Delhi FAQs

Is it safe for solo female travelers?

Yes, but it requires vigilance and planning. Stick to busy public areas, use the dedicated women's metro coaches, avoid transit late at night, and stay in reputable neighborhoods like South Delhi or Chanakyapuri.

How do I avoid getting sick ('Delhi Belly')?

Drink only bottled or filtered water, avoid ice, eat at busy stalls where food is cooked fresh in front of you, and give your stomach a day or two to adjust before diving into heavy street food.

What is the best way to beat the traffic?

The Delhi Metro is the fastest, cleanest, and most reliable way to travel across the city, completely bypassing the gridlocked roads.

Do I need to tip in restaurants?

Tipping is appreciated but not mandatory. Many upscale restaurants add a 10% service charge to the bill; if they do, no additional tip is required.

How do I handle aggressive street vendors?

Avoid eye contact, say a firm 'Nahi' (No in Hindi), and keep walking without hesitation.